Bloom the flavors. In a small bowl, combine raisins/currants and candied peel with the orange zest. If your fruit is very dry, soak it in warm water or tea for 10 minutes, then drain well. Set aside.

Mix the dough. In a large bowl, whisk flour, sugar, yeast, salt, cinnamon, allspice, and nutmeg. Make a well. Add warm milk, egg, vanilla, and softened butter. Stir with a wooden spoon until a shaggy dough forms.

Knead until smooth. Turn the dough onto a lightly floured surface. Knead for 8–10 minutes (or 6–7 minutes on medium in a stand mixer with a dough hook) until smooth, elastic, and slightly tacky.

Add the fruit. Flatten the dough slightly, scatter the fruit mixture over it, and fold it in. Knead gently to distribute evenly, adding a dusting of flour only if the fruit makes the dough too sticky.

First rise. Place the dough in a lightly oiled bowl, cover, and let rise in a warm spot until doubled, about 60–90 minutes.

Shape the buns. Punch down the dough and divide into 12 equal pieces (about 80–85 g each). Shape into tight balls by tucking edges under and rolling on the counter with a cupped hand.

Second rise. Arrange balls in a lined or greased 9x13-inch pan or on a parchment-lined sheet, spaced slightly apart. Cover and proof until puffy and touching, about 45–60 minutes. Near the end, preheat oven to 375°F (190°C).

Make the cross paste. Mix flour, a pinch of sugar, and enough water to form a thick, smooth paste that pipes easily. Transfer to a piping bag (or zip-top bag with a tiny corner snipped).

Pipe the crosses. Pipe straight lines across each row of buns, then across the other direction to form neat crosses. Aim for thin, steady lines; thick lines can crack.

Bake. Bake 18–22 minutes, until deep golden brown and an instant-read thermometer reads about 195–200°F (90–93°C) in the center.

Glaze while hot. Warm the jam with hot water and strain if chunky. Brush generously over the hot buns for a glossy finish.

Cool and serve. Let buns cool at least 15 minutes. Serve warm with butter. They’re also great split and toasted the next day.